(continued)
The Buzz About Foodies
August 2000
...mood, under
a tin ceiling and original Absinthe posters, I knew this was the
right place when my dining partner gave me a kiss on the cheek.
The ripple of music by famous female chanteuses set the mood of
a French Brasserie (ala the Belle Epoque era). This scene is the
perfect setting for Chef Ross Browne and his
team, Eddie Arriaga and Michael Lemaire,
the sous chefs, and pastry chef Claire Legas
to seduce you to indulge yourself. And we did. The enticement
of small portions of wine (2 ounces) encouraged us to indulge
our curiosities to pair with the huge selection of appetizers.
It worked so well that we floated out on a cloud. Later I found
out that the people in the mural are owner Billy Russell-Shapiro
and his wife and friends...Very chic. Very S F.
For the classic of all classic revivals, the story of Clementine's
is a classic! This is the story of a French Bistro in a location
that has always been French, dating back 30+ years. Previously
it was the home of the famous French Chef Alan Rondelli,
the restaurant name as well. Alan owned it for 5 years before
moving on to manifest his dream of manufacturing his own sauces.
The previous 25 years of this location was known as St.
Tropez. If the walls could talk! Laurent Legendre
and Didier Labbe`, the current owners, have inherited
a history and legacy. They have kept the menu modestly priced,
in the French Bistro tradition, with a wine list to match. They
share my love of Rhone style wines, keeping the price per bottle
in the range of $20 – 30! That's a real trick in today's
escalating prices. The menu features the traditional French Bistro
selections. Of special note is the escargot, beef carpaccio, duck,
quail, and the dessert menu. So who is watching their diets? Not
here! "La Pause Café", as their
dessert and beverage menu is known, features unique offerings
like "Colonel de Clementine", Carmelized French Toast
and Lemon Tarte. They even have French music nights here –
just to make you Francophiles feel at home!
So, my fellow foodies, where do you think is the Best New Restaurant
in the nation, according to the James Beard Foundation?
Yes, we are fortunate to be blessed with the award winning Gary
Danko Restaurant, but try and get a reservation. The
accolades for our fellow food professionals in our region continues
on and on. Judy Rodgers of Zuni Café earned the Best Chef
in California honors; Larry Stone Wine Director
of Rubicon, The Outstanding Wine Service Award; Kermit
Lynch, of Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants in Berkeley,
the Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional; Swan Oyster
Depot in S F was named a Regional Classic. Joey Altman,
host of Bay Café on Bay TV, won best local television
cooking show. Bay Area author Beth Hensperger
won for Best Baking and Dessert Book, (Chronicle Books) Gary
Danko and Gary Danko Restaurant, James Beard
Foundation's Best New Restaurant in the nation
The new scene for
restaurants? Downtown Napa. The new 80,00 sq ft, 13 acre site
of the American Center for Wine Food and the Arts,
thanks to the leadership of the Mondavi family, is creating a
renaissance for downtown Napa. The old Hatt building
(circa 1884) will soon be a combination 65 room upscale hotel
called the Napa River Inn, with adjoining restaurant,
café, pub, Epicurean food markets, boutique shops, full
service spa, and a regular weekend farmers and art and crafts
market! The old Opera House (circa 1880) will
be renovated and known as the Margrit Biever Mondavi Opera
House Theatre. Also soon to be open will be the restaurant
Tuscany, developed by Dave Cash and Dave
Leuschner. Tuscany will occupy an 1885 vintage brick
building at the corner of First and Main streets. The chef is
Aram Chakerian, whom Michael Bauer
of the S F Chronicle claimed as making the "Best Tiramisu".
Go Napa! Go Restaurateurs! Go Foodies!
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